The Designer Strawberry Has Arrived
From late May through June, farmstands and farmers’ markets around the United States pop with color: bright red, fragrant, heart-shaped berries are in season. U-pick strawberry fields are ransacked annually by eager kids and their watchful parents, faces smeared with magenta slime. Stores are flush with overflowing cardboard cartons of strawberries, bearing “local” labels. For many, this period marks one’s first taste of truly ripe, melt-in-your-mouth strawberries, dripping with juice, bursting with sweetness. Then, by midsummer, the bliss is over. We revert back to cold, sterile, plastic clamshells of supermarket strawberries for the rest of the year. Bloated and crunchy, they’ve been grown afar and bred to withstand travel time—and they can feel...