For America’s Best Teriyaki, Head West (and Bring Napkins)
I’m sitting at a plastic table in front of a strip mall at the edge of Portland. I-5 hums in the distance. There is a Cadillac Escalade parked in front of me with tinted windows and a bar lock over the steering wheel, which seems excessive for 2 p.m. on a Wednesday in June. I’m waiting for the line to die down at Bentoz, one of the hundreds of Korean-owned teriyaki restaurants along the I-5 corridor in the Pacific Northwest.
It has been more than a decade since I’ve been here for chicken teriyaki. I’ve never ordered anything else off the menu. I’m not sure anyone else has, for that matter. I used to come to Bentoz all the time in high school, during our lunch hour. It was nearby, cheap, and I could get a close relative of my dad’s shoyu chicken...